Rolex eventually set about replacing the long-used Submariner ref. 5513 in 1990, a model that had been in use since 1962, gave rise to the MilSub and served as a testbed for the helium vent valve that later found a permanent home on Sea-Dweller. The model that replaced it, the Submariner ref. 14060, is generally seen as a bridge between then and now, and the last classic replica Rolex Submariner watch.
Like every Submariner beloved by purists, the ref. 14060 is a model without a date. The date function was introduced on Ref. 1680, launched in 1967. The introduction of a date function on the Ref. 1680, introduced in 1967, was a big turn-off for watch fans, not because of the complication itself, but because of the inclusion of Rolex’s Cyclops magnifying glass on the date window at three o’clock. There is some truth to the argument that this new addition destroys the symmetry of the dial and reduces its readability at the first glance.
Elsewhere, the bezel insert is aluminum, still exceptionally strong but prone to fading when exposed to seawater or UV rays, bringing a look unique to each particular watch. The case is the last example before the super case, retaining a slim, sweeping profile instead of the more robust models in today’s catalog. Also, as an added cherry on top, the Reference 14060 is the last model with lug holes, and there’s nothing like a case with lug holes to make a collector’s heart sing. This means that it is very easy to replace the original hollow oyster strap with a rubber strap, or even a NATO strap, thus giving a watch a couple of very special looks.
While the Cal. 3000 is certainly a more modern movement than before, it lacks some of the features that fake Rolex’s other in-house movements rightfully include. The most obvious omission is Breguet’s overcoil, while Rolex has opted for a flat balance spring. As has been the custom in high-end mechanical watches for over 200 years, the overcoil ensures greater precision by providing more constant tension to the winding. Since the reference 14060 is positioned as the cheapest Submariner model, the absence of the Breguet overcoil is likely simply to keep the price down.