Rolex’s collaboration with Wallpaper* and Nicholas Foulkes on Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch that Unlocked the Deep has brought to light the fascinating history of the iconic dive watch. Recently published, the book includes a detailed overview of production numbers for various Submariner references, revealing just how scarce some models truly are.

This unprecedented transparency from Rolex, a company known for keeping such information under wraps, allows collectors to better understand the rarity of these highly sought-after replica watches. Below, we highlight five of the rarest stainless steel Rolex Submariners based on the book’s findings.

1. Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200
   Debuting in 1954 and produced until 1956, the ref. 6200 is famous for its 3-6-9 Explorer dial. Often referred to as the “Big Crown Submariner,” it features an 8mm crown, significantly larger than the 6mm crown found on earlier models like the ref. 6204. With a 38mm case that is water-resistant to 200 meters and powered by the Rolex caliber A296, the 6200 has a gilt dial that omits the Submariner name. The common belief is that approximately 300 units were produced, with the book confirming a total of 303, making it the rarest stainless steel Submariner reference.
2. Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205
   Released in 1954 and produced for only one year, the ref. 6205 features a 38mm stainless steel case and a 6mm crown, classifying it among the “Small Crown Submariners.” Unlike the 6200, this model has a depth rating of 100 meters and is powered by the upgraded caliber A260. Originally equipped with pencil hands, later models featured Mercedes hands, and the Submariner name appeared on the lower portion of the gilt dial. A total of 810 units were produced, making it the fourth-rarest Submariner.
3. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5510
   The ref. 5510, launched in 1958, is known for its striking resemblance to the earlier ref. 6538, famously worn by Sean Connery as James Bond. This model features a black bezel with a red triangle and a gilt dial. Unlike its predecessor, the 5510 is powered by the updated caliber 1530. Only 500 units were made, affirming its rarity and high market value, with examples currently listed for sale at impressive prices.
4. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5517
   The ref. 5517 is a standout among the military Submariner models, or “MilSubs.” Produced from 1971 to 1979, the 5517 features a 40mm case with fixed strap bars and unique tritium lume. Rolex reportedly manufactured 539 units of this reference, enhancing its desirability among collectors.
5. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5514
   The Rolex Submariner ref. 5514, a unique model for Comex, differs from the typical civilian versions. Initially released in 1969 without a Comex logo on the dial, these early models can be identified by their helium escape valve (HEV) on the case. With a total production of 1,618 units, the ref. 5514 stands out as the only reference on this list with over 1,000 pieces produced. However, its rarity still pales in comparison to the production numbers of other models from the era.

The newly released book provides invaluable insights into the history and rarity of these five stainless steel copy Rolex Submariner references. For any Rolex enthusiast or collector, this book is an essential addition, offering not only practical information but also a celebration of the Submariner’s rich legacy. Available in limited-edition silk-bound copies through the Wallpaper* store and standard editions through select retailers, it’s a must-read for anyone passionate about this iconic dive watch.